Thursday, 21 June 2012

Gladstone, The Narrows and Great Keppel Island



We reprovisioned on Thursday.  Friday was Robyn’s birthday and we hitched a ride with the Curtis Ferries Barge that services the islands in Curtis Harbour. 

The Curtis Endeavour - Our Gladstone Harbour Cruise Boat
We saw the settlements of Farmer’s Point on Facing Island and South End on Curtis Island.  We also dropped cars off at Quoin Island and Compigne Island.  Once onboard, we headed straight for the bridge and the Captain allowed us to stay there for the whole 2 and a half hour trip.  It is a very attractive waterway – pity about the industrial activity.  Matthew Flinders named Quoin Island after sailing north in investigator  from naming Woody Point and Redcliffe. 

Captain Ian (with offsider)
South End on Curtis Island - Where the locals come down to watch the barge arrive
Farmers Point on Facing Island
We set off from Gladstone Marina on the rising tide on Saturday afternoon for Black Swan Creek.  Here we intended to await the rising tide the next morning to go through the area known as The Narrows that dries a low tide.  The chart below shows about 5 nautical miles actually dries out.  

The Narrows - The Green area dries at low tide
On Sunday morning were fogged in at Black Swan.  We could hear the fog horns from the northern parts of Gladstone.  The fog cleared at 09:30 and we needed to leave at 0745 to have enough water with the high tide to get through The Narrows. So we spent another pleasant day at Black Swan Creek.

Sunday morning fogged in at 0900

Sunset from Black Swan Creek
Sunset from Black Swan Creek - on Sunday

Redcliffe Island in The Narrows
Water quality monitoring bouys. They are everywhere.
We were very focused travelling up The Narrows as the channels are narrow and winding.  At one place on some leads, we encountered another boat coming from the north.  It was a ketch rigged trimaran and we could see her masts before we saw her.  Interesting thing about leads, you are either on THE line of the leads or not.  Neither of us were when we passed and both got through OK.  We turned into Badger Creek, our intended anchorage and happily dropped the anchor in 7 metres of water.  It was just after high tide when we anchored and as the 3.24 metre high tide dropped to the 0.88 metre low tide, we were protected by the mangroves and the banks of the creek.  It was perfect.  The sand flies though so too and we quickly retreated to the cabin for the day! 

Badger Creek
Badger Creek at low tide
During the course of the day we abandoned our plans for the next day to go to Sea Hill at the mouth of the Fitzroy River and the intended anchorage in Pacific Creek as it looked similar to Badger Creek.  Instead we headed direct to Great Keppel Island.

The trip from Badger Creek to Great Keppel Island is 30 nautical miles.  It was a fabulously clear, warm day.  We needed to observe some red beacons coming out of The Narrows before turning to a more northerly course to take us clear of the rocks on the eastern side of Great Keppel Island. 
Mt Larcom from the northern end of The Narrows
 The wind was SW (square behind us) until we turned north and then it went around to the south to continue to be square behind us.  We declared it to be a spinnaker run and carried the kite almost to the top of Great Keppel, dropping it as the wind became too light and variable for it to continue to carry.

We are anchored off the small headland between Svendsen’s Beach and Second Beach. 
We have been at Svendsen’s Beach since we arrived. 
Great Keppel Island
 We visited Carl and Lyndie who live at this beautiful place; have been walking; and have put in a few hours helping maintain walking tracks on the island. 
Svendsens Beach
"Svendsens Bay"
Wreck Beach headland
Mini Maripi on Second Beach

Chris cutting back lantana on Cooee walking track

190mm log which had fallen across the track
Leeke's Lagoon where some Cats dry out
Tomorrow we intend to walk the 7km round trip (up hill and down dale) to the old resort which has been closed for 4 years.   We love Great Keppel Island and have been here several times before.  The walking tracks are extensive.  One visit, when we were between boats, we stayed in Lyndie’s brilliant camp style accommodation.  

We caught up with the folks on Mistweaver, who we saw in Pancake Creek, and had a cup of tea with Pauline and Keith on Tan T’ien.  Pauline knew one of the former owners of Maripi, Bill Withers.  Keith, a boat builder, put the stern extension on Maripi several years earlier. 

Tan T’ien in the setting sun

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